14-Day Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal
"The mountains are calling and I must go"
This quote from John Muir captures how the mountains, especially the Himalayas, have been tugging at my heart for a while and how I felt compelled to go. Mountains, standing tall and strong, with their poised presence, have always inspired me. Their majesty, charm, and beauty are captivating, no doubt, but it is the serenity in their surroundings that brings peace to my soul and keeps bringing me back to them. Hiking in the mountains is my kind of meditation. I fell in love with hiking in the mountains during our trips to the North Cascades National Park and Mt. Rainier National Park in 2021, where we did several day hikes. We then did the 4-day classic Inca trail in Peru in 2023, as an introduction to multi-day hiking and enjoyed it. After that, I felt more confident to attempt the "Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek", which is akin to a pilgrimage to me, as the Himalayas have always held a special place in my heart, and perhaps in the hearts of most Indians. They not only are the tallest mountains in the world, but also are a central part of Indian mythology and hold a special allure and magic for us. And I was lucky enough to find 3 other souls, who were willing to accompany me in this journey. It took almost a year of planning and preparation, and it was worth every minute of it in the end.
Our 14-days in Nepal for the EBC Trek were phenomenal. There wasn't a moment in the trek when I had second thoughts or thought it was too much. The weather, the tour operator and the company played a huge role in making this a very smooth trip. We were super lucky to be at the right place, at the right time with the right people! We picked early November for the hike due to its clear skies, beautiful weather and lesser crowds (oh, and my birthday falls in early November too ;). We were blessed with beautiful weather for the entire 2 weeks of our time in Nepal, which was a major factor in making this trip super smooth. It is, however, highly recommended to have 2-3 extra days at the end of the trip to accommodate for local flight delays due to the unpredictable weather in the mountains. We selected "Ace the Himalayas (ATH)" as our tour operator and they did a fantastic job throughout in managing the logistics as well as taking great care of us. There are ~3000 tour agencies in Nepal and picking a tour operator can be a bit overwhelming. I read several online reviews, got recommendations from a few acquaintances who have done the hike before and finally picked ATH, as they promised attached toilets for the first few days of the hike :) They delivered on their promise and much more and we whole-heartedly recommend them. The only other thing that mattered is your company. I already had the best possible company in my husband and 2 close friends who joined me on this hike. ATH added 2 other ladies from Columbia to form a small tour group. The 6 of us, along with our guide Milan and head porter Balakrishnan, formed a great team and had a wonderful time together. We had 2 other porters supporting us, but they went much ahead of us.
We landed in Kathmandu, Nepal around 1 PM on Day 0 and were greeted both warmly and ceremoniously with marigold garlands at the airport by our ATH team. We were then transported to our hotel in a mini-bus and after a short lunch break, we gathered at the ATH office for a pre-trek group briefing. Here, we met the 2 Columbian ladies who were to be part of our group for the next 2 weeks. Our agency head briefed us what to expect over the next 2 weeks. He informed us that the flights from Ramechhap to Lukla, where the hike begins, got canceled due to bad weather for the last 3 days and they have to first clear that backlog before they could let us board our flight. So, it's unsure if we could catch our flight the next day to begin our hike. We then talked about our various options to make it back on time to catch our international flight back home, as we did not have buffer days. He then gave us our duffel bag, in which to pack our stuff for the next morning and sent us back to the hotel wishing us luck. Even though the session was a bit unnerving, I had this inner belief that it was all going to work out fine. It was my birthday the next morning, after all :) We spent the next couple of hours trying to pack all the required stuff in our duffel bag within the 15 Kg weight limit.
On Day 1, we got settled in our mini-bus at 4 am for our ~5-hour drive to Ramechhap airport, from our hotel in Kathmandu. Soon after we got out of Kathmandu, the roads got progressively worse and the road journey itself seemed like an adventure. But we were excited to begin our journey and were glad to reach the airport around 8:30 am. To say that the airport was chaotic, would be a grand understatement. We moved from one waiting hall to another and eventually after several hours of suspense and praying to the weather Gods, we were able to board our flight to Lukla around 1 pm. We were ecstatic. After 20 minutes of pure excitement in the Nepalese skies amidst the beautiful mountain landscapes, we landed in Lukla, where we would finally begin our hike :)
We began our hike after lunch around 3 pm and reached our first tea house in Phakding, about 5 miles later. It was a pleasant hike with beautiful views of the mountains and the valleys, dotted with cute cafes and cozy tea houses adorned with lovely flowers. We passed by Yaks, mules and Jokyos carrying heavy weights, moving slowly to the rhythmic sound of the bells hanging around their necks. The porters passed by swiftly, occasionally blasting Bollywood music, which always brought a smile. Both the locals and the Nepalese dogs we met along the way, were super friendly.
After a while, we crossed the first of the many suspension bridges, which was pretty exciting. Then we came across the milky white "Dudh Koshi" river, whose gushing enthusiasm and energetic rumble, kept us company for most of the trek. When we reached the tea house around 6 pm, they were having some issues with electricity, so we had a candle light dinner! Having learnt about my birthday from my friends, our guide got a really nice cake to celebrate my birthday once again. On that happy note, we called it a night :)
On Day 2, we started hiking around 7:30 am after breakfast. The weather was beautiful and the scenery was spectacular. The hike began with Nepali Flats, which is a combination of moderately uphill and downhill hiking. Day 2 has the highest elevation gain in a day on this trek (~2,700 ft. and hence considered difficult), but most of it was to come after lunch. We entered the "Sagarmatha National Park" in a couple of hours. We then stopped for an early lunch of Dal Bhat (Rice, Lentil Soup & Vegetables) at a tea house. Dal Bhat and Lemon, Ginger, Honey tea were to be our staple diet throughout the hike. It is not only a healthy food choice, but also easy on your tummy. It is recommended to avoid eating meat during the trek due to its low freshness at higher altitudes.
As we checked into our tea house at Namche Bazaar, we were awestruck by the beautiful views of the snow capped mountains from our balconies. They were picture perfect and I stood there for a long time, trying to soak it all in. We enjoyed the hot shower facility and then went to a nearby café and had a good time drinking hot chocolate and eating chocolate cake. The tea house had a cozy dining area where we all gathered at night, to sing and dance to some Bollywood and Spanish songs, and had a great time.
On Day 3, which was our acclimatization day, we started hiking around 7:30 am to a nearby Sherpa museum, which had fantastic views of mountains all around. It was a deliciously sunny day and we got our first peak of the Mt. Everest here. It was from here that our 360 degree panoramic views of the Himalayas began and we were all excited. We spent some time in the museum, admiring the courage, grit and perseverance of all those who climbed the mountains and learning a bit more about the Himalayan ranges.
We then hiked to the "Hotel Everest View" for even better views. The views were great but the restaurant was pretty crowded. So, we just took a lot of pictures and then headed to the "Sagarmatha Next" visitor center, which was set up to educate the tourists and improve waste management in the region through several sustainable projects. One such project was "Carry Me Back," where waste handlers shred metal and plastic waste, which was then placed in one-kilo bags that visitors can voluntarily take down the mountain for recycling. As our tiny contribution towards their massive effort, we carried 2 of those bags on our way down from Namche Bazaar to Lukla.
We got back to our tea house in time for lunch around 1 pm. It was a relatively easy day and we spent the evening strolling around the lively Namche Bazaar, visiting more cafés and enjoying the vibrancy of this colorful Himalayan market town. We also did some last minute shopping for micro-spikes, just in case we encountered snow closer to the Base Camp.
On Day 4, we started hiking around 8 am after breakfast. We hiked through mountains, valleys and forests, to reach the beautiful mountain village of Tengboche around 3 pm. This tiny village consisting of 3 guest houses and a Buddhist monastery had the most incredible mountain views I have seen until then. The serenity of this place is hard to convey in words - the peaceful setting, the scenic surroundings, the sweeping mountain views and the sound of the bells from the Monastery - all of it combined gave this place an otherworldly aura. I absolutely loved it. This was exactly the kind of mountain town I had hoped for, when planning for the EBC trek. One of our friends got the first symptoms of altitude sickness, just as we were about to reach the place, which was a bit scary. I sat outside, reading a book that afternoon, and praying that we all make it safely to the Base Camp and back.
We went to the Buddhist monastery in the evening and spent some time listening to the monks chanting. It was when we were getting out of the monastery, that I saw the most stunning view of the Mt. Everest. The clouds just cleared, revealing the mountains and it was a sight to behold. The view was so breathtaking that I stood there arrested for almost 10 minutes. It is magical moments like this, that make all the effort so worth it.
Back at the tea house, we played cards at night and ate one of the best pizzas ever. The food has been surprisingly good, even in remote places like this. We were also given hot towels infused with menthol, to wipe our faces before meals - and what a luxury it was in that cold weather! This was the first night where we had to use common toilets, but it wasn't bad at all. I finally got my periods on this day, which I was super worried about for months before starting the trek, but was able to manage fairly well.
On Day 5, we began hiking at 8 am through forests and soon we crossed the tree line, which is roughly around 4,000m in this region. The landscape began to shift slowly and the greenery is now replaced by a rocky terrain.
We reached the tiny village of Dingboche around 2 pm. It has, what is possibly the world's highest café at an altitude of 4,410 meters, called the "Café 4410". We were amazed at the vibe of the place and the fancy drinks they were able to whip up at such high altitudes!
The Sun began to set and as we stepped out of the café a bit later, we saw the mountains glowing in the moonlight. What a glow it was! It was a mesmerizing sight at night and we tried our best to capture their expansive beauty in our tiny cameras.
We had Aloo paratha and Fried Veg Momos for dinner, which was pretty good.
On Day 6, which was our last acclimatization day, we began our short hike at 8 am to the Nangkartsang peak and back. It was a steep hike but it was a beautiful day with fantastic mountain views. We went about 3/4th of the way up and sat down to absorb the beauty and serenity of our surroundings. We wished we could sit there longer, just staring at the mountains and taking in the views. But we had to get back to our tea house for lunch, so we reluctantly started our descent and came back around noon. We had Wei Wei noodles, which was one of the fun meals on the trek, and we all finished it very quickly.
We spent the evening chilling out in another café. I was feeling a bit low on energy that evening, due to cold and my periods, so took a paracetamol and went to bed early.
On Day 7, we began hiking around 8:30 am, and we had excellent visibility with almost no clouds. The landscape was barren and the snow capped mountains looked so remarkable and strikingly beautiful. There is something so raw and powerful about this naked landscape, that makes you emotional. Hot tears started rolling down my cold cheeks and I did not make any effort to stop them. Head also felt stuffy as I was recovering from the cold.
The facilities at Lobuche were bare minimum and the rest rooms weren't pleasant. As it got colder and the oxygen levels dropped at higher elevations, it was getting harder to sleep. Our appetites weren't as bad, but the food wasn't as good as it was until then. But it was to be expected and our guide had been mentally preparing us for this. So, we did ok and got up early the next morning for our hike to the Base Camp. At this point, I would highly recommend perusing the guest post by my dear friend, Manish Dubey, which provides valuable tips to handle the situation like a pro.
On Day 8, we had an early start around 6 am. We hiked for several hours on a narrow, rocky path to reach the Khumbu Glacier. The mountains felt very close at this point and the Glacier was fascinating.
We experienced some head throbbing and mild headaches on the way, but it was manageable. We then crossed some boulders and finally reached the Base Camp around 12:30 pm. The atmosphere at the Base Camp was quite festive. There were colorful prayer flags, a welcome sign and a rock symbolizing the end of the EBC hike. We joined a line of excited people, to get our pictures clicked on the famous EBC rock. Everyone was cheering for the people standing on the rock and the place was filled with a lot of energy. For about 30 minutes, we forgot all about the tiredness and the altitude sickness and reveled in the glory of successfully completing the trek.
Fueled with renewed energy, we then started our hike back and reached our tea house in Gorak Shep around 3 pm. The rooms were tiny and the corridors were overpowered by the unpleasant smell emanating from the restrooms, despite the best efforts of the staff trying to keep them clean. The dining area was better, so we spent our evening there, admiring the mountain views from the windows. And luckily captured this amazing view of Mt. Everest, glowing in the orange light at sunset, with the moon in the background.
On Day 9, we headed to Kala Patthar, which is the highest point on this trek. It is a very steep hike and we would need to start very early in the morning, when the temperatures are freezing cold. Since we would be back at the tea house by breakfast time to start our descent, this is an optional hike. Couple of people in the group decided to drop and a couple of them wanted to start late and only wanted to go half way. After some debate, 4 of us decided to start hiking at 5 am and do it half way, up to an elevation of 5,462m. It took about an hour to reach halfway and we were just in time to catch the sunrise. It was an overwhelming feeling, to be standing there early in the morning, surrounded by stunning snow capped mountains, as the Sun brought life and color to the landscape. It was just a blessing to be there.
The descent was slippery and a bit tricky, but we were back at the tea house by 7 am. After taking a short break and having breakfast, we started the descent around 8:30 am. After having tackled the Base Camp and Kala Patthar ascents without any major incidents as a group, I felt so free and thoroughly enjoyed my descent on this day. Everyone started feeling better too, at this point. I ran through most of the trail, feeling like a free bird, and had a wonderful day in the mountains. I finally met the wilder me, that I had been missing for a while and had been eager to meet. While I enjoy spending time with my husband and friends, I treasure my solo time like nothing else. I made a promise to self in the mountains, to give myself more of that.
We reached Pheriche around 1:30 pm and got super excited to see our spacious rooms at the tea house, with attached bathrooms once again. I can't really explain what a delight it was, after experiencing the tiny and almost suffocating (due to low oxygen levels) rooms with unpleasant smells over the last couple of days. We also had delightful mountain views from our room and the 4 of us spent the entire evening, cozying up in our room and chatting away. I was over-the-top-happy :)
On Day 10, we started hiking at 7 am, as we have to hike 12 miles from Pheriche to get to Namche Bazaar that evening. It was going to be a mix of uphill and downhill and can get tiring, as our body adjusts to one after the other. But we made it down, earlier than expected, around 2:45 pm. We had a relaxed evening at the Bodhi Hotel in Namche Bazaar, which had a lot of amenities, including hot running water, which was highly welcomed.
On Day 11, we started hiking at 7 am again, as it's going to be another long day of hiking with 12+ miles from Namche Bazaar to Lukla. We passed through Phakding around 11 am, and thoroughly enjoyed all the greenery and scenery on our way down. We had the best Dal Bhat here for lunch and then continued our descent after a very satisfying meal.
On Day 12, we got ready by 6 am, had breakfast and spent the next few hours lazing around in our room, anxiously waiting for our guide to let us know when we can head to the airport, while constantly checking the weather apps. It is not over until we head out of Lukla and be back on the road from Ramechhap. Finally, we headed to the airport around 9 am and after more chaos and suspense at the airport, were able to get on the flight around 11:30 am. The drive from Ramechhap to Kathmandu seemed more winding, bumpier and worse this time around and I threw up mid-way. Luckily, we had Rob and his friend John, from another group, join us on our ride and they kept the conversation quite interesting, which made the rest of the drive feel a lot better. There was a lot of traffic in the evening and we did not reach Kathmandu till around 7 pm.
Once we reached our hotel, we got ready quickly and headed to our farewell dinner at Mazaaj, a Mediterranean restaurant in Thamel, Kathmandu. The restaurant had a great ambience and it even had live music, which we weren't expecting. We had a great time singing and dancing with the group, which included Rob and John as well. Rob, who served as the Queen's butler at one point, recommended a cocktail for us to try, Negroni, and it was fantastic. The evening ended with a small ceremony, where we were handed our certificates for completing the hike, by the ATH group. It was a terrific way to end a phenomenal hike :)
I would whole-heartedly recommend the hike and the ATH group, to anyone considering it. We hiked a total of 80 miles in 11 days, with the lowest elevation being 2,610m (8,562 ft) at Phakding, to the highest point of 5,462m (17,919 ft) near Kala Patthar. We spent the last day in Kathmandu visiting the famous Pasupatinath Temple and doing some necessary shopping, before taking off :)
Last Note: Go slow and steady, carry waterproof shoes and hiking poles, avoid eating meat on the trek, drink lots of water and electrolytes and take Diamox (helps with altitude sickness), when necessary. And don't forget to check this valuable guest blog for more tips! Enjoy the journey, the destination and the company :) Stay safe and have lots of fun!
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